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Painting Journal – Intertidal Mudflats

Painting Journal – Intertidal Mudflats

A paintings story

My website shows a lot of finished paintings, but how do I go from black canvas to finished painting?

Well, join me on this painting – Intertidal Mudflats – and I will tell you all about how I go from an idea to a painting.

…sorry Francis

Everything starts with an idea, or an arresting view that shouts paint me.

In this instance it was a beautiful sunny morning and I had enough time to hop on my bike and get to the Avon Gorge before work.

I go there to see the view of course, but also because the graffiti is a constant inspiration – both Wonky Bridge and Flapped Outflow are from this vista.

On this early spring morning I was struck by the still waters and the half-exposed mudflats. 

It creates an almost-alien landscape, a cross between Victorian/Georgian England and the moon. 

The start

I used my trusty grid approach, applying a 9 x 6 grid to the reference photo which I’d cropped to a 9×6 aspect ratio, before then applying it on the 90cm x 60cm canvas – the result 54 10 cm2 boxes to help me put things in the right place.

This time I deviated from my usual approach though. I usually use pencil to draw the basics of the composition. This time I used some newly-acquired alcohol ink pens to do the under drawing.

The benefits of this were that I could add some tonality to it all and it created far less in the way of smudging to the canvas.

Once I’d done that I applied a burnt sienna wash to everything (acrylic) to even out the tones  – it was almost a shame to cover up the ink!

Painting

I normally start with the most-distant part of the composition – which is always the sky, unless there is no sky.

I then paint towards the viewer, but hate to waste paint, so if something shares a colour or tone then I try not to waste anything.

For this painting I am very lucky, because after doing some specific colours and tones I can mix up what I’ve got and make up some mud!

I will continue to do this, covering the canvas, and then I will go back and refines things.

The mud will be a peculiar challenge, as it has lots of subtlety and highlights as well as deep dark shadows. It will warrant paint mixing specifically for the task and not just the mud made from painting other colours.

Paint distant objects first

I used Liquin to thin the paint for the sky and the building, I will use the fat over lean approach and bring highlights etc with thicker paint.

The details have been done with small brushes, whereas the foreground so far has been made with bigger brushes (so far!)

Use up the muddy paints for the mud!

The mud will be brought alive with real contrasts in the highlights and the shadows.

The mud reflects the blue sky, so I will add a glaze to the mud, once I've defined the structure.

click the hotspots for more info…

Colour, Hue and Chroma

As a non-classically trained artist, this is the biggest challenge for me.

My colours are often a little naïve and bright. It’s almost my signature and I guess in some ways you should lean into your instincts.

That said, I am very lucky to have world-class artists painting in and around me.

The amazing Peter Brown often paints in and around Bristol (he’s a legend of en pleinair by the way!). I am very lucky because I get to see how a world-class artist tackles subjects that I can paint.

For this painting I am referencing some of Peter’s work from the same locality.

He uses a muted palette but with strong contrast where it’s needed to elevate the interest points.

Greens are too green

The left-side of my brain knows that grass and trees are green.

In an early spring day, like the day of my painting, the reality is that it's not nearly as green as that!

Where Peter’s work smacks me in the face, in a good way, is that his control of colour, hue and chroma.
He paints loosely, but his control of palette makes his work photo realistic, without painting a single real detail. It’s all hue and chroma.

Control from a sound art foundation and thousands of paintings  – experience. Take a look at this painting of his (below) to see what I mean.

I can learn from Peter though – his ability to paint what is there and not what you think is there.

Paint the shapes, in the right colours, FORGET THE OBJECTS – let them follow the colours and shapes!

My reference photo doesn’t carry the same light as in Peter’s painting – a benefit of pleinair is that real view of what you are painting – I need to tone down the green and elevate the shadow/light balance. Thanks Pete!

Light

With every brushstroke my thought is the same – am I adding light or shade.

To find light in a painting (where there is no light, just pigment), you need to supply the dark contrast to allow the illusion of light to emerge.

Where this is working well in the painting so far is the right side of the gorge. The light and shadow provides the illusion of depth.

The trick to remember is that atmospheric depth is about the desaturation (and blue tint) that is applied to colours in the distance. So the shadows and contrasts in the foreground have to punch more viscerally in the foreground.

This means that although I want to show the play of light in the shadows in the gorge, I need to be mindful that the contrast will be more distinct closer to the viewer.

The buildings come alive when I add light details where the edges catch the early sunlight – so that’s the next task!

Details

I’m painting in the buildings now, this is the hardest part – your left-side of the brain wants to paint what you know must be there – windows and roofs and chimneys.

If you take a look at Peter’s painting you see he doesn’t even consider them at all.

My painting is quite a bit bigger than his, and ultimately my style is different, so I need to include them – much to my chagrin – they are so small and hard to convincingly convey.

They will take a couple of layers to produce and it’s a challenge of giving enough information and not too much.

Ai Ai

I know what I need to do to improve the piece towards completion, but what says Ai?

It’s come on so much that, actually, it’s a good sounding board and honest critique.

Interested in what Ai thinks? Have a look at what it says here:

So, what’s the summary advice from the combined Ai?!

  1. Enhance depth & perspective
  2. Improve lighting and shadows
  3. Enhance the sky
  4. Refine the water and reflections
  5. Increase colour saturation and contrast
  6. Refine brushwork and detail

…and finally, things to think about overall:

  • Step Back and Observe: Take breaks and view the painting from a distance to assess the overall composition and balance (Gemini).
  • Work in Layers: Build up the painting in layers, starting with an underpainting and gradually adding detail and texture (Gemini).
  • Use References: If you’re working from a photo, refer to it frequently to ensure accuracy (Gemini).
  • Experiment: Don’t be afraid to try different techniques, such as adjusting the sign’s angle or adding a narrative element (Gemini, Grok).

Ouch! And I thought I was getting close to being done!

Finishing

Obviously I didn’t take on all the advice from Ai – after all it’s already got far too much of an influence on art already. That said, I reviewed the painting with regards the atmospheric depth and the water.

Finally, I resolved the sign… here’s what I ended up with.

Did you know that Bob Dylan did visit the river a mile or so down stream from here?

Here’s the proof! Bob Dylan Aust Ferry 1966 © Barry Feinstein Photography, Inc.

Here’s a Polaroid proof that sometimes the tide does come in fully!

© 2025 | Neil Watson Artist